[Ma...] Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 In other words, I have the dial set to MAX and the joystick fully deflected, but this speed is too slow for me to work efficiently. I want the machine to move faster. Is there a setting in CALYPSO that allows me to increase the maximum speed of the joystick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[De...] Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 You can check on the box and make sure the light is not on next to the turtle. The turtle indicates slow mode. It is a toggle - if the light is on, push the button again to deactivate it. If you are not in slow mode, then no there is no way to increase the speed past max. that I am aware of. Efficiency is destroyed very quickly when one overzealous move and you are replacing a $10,000.00 sensor head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[SH...] Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3202#p20852 I think some problem in your joystick ,read this post and do the calibration it might help you.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Am...] Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 I think there is something else going on or wrong with your set up because I can't imagine wanting to go faster then it already goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. I did the calibration on all 3 axes. The speed of the joystick appears to be the same as it was before the calibration. The speed isn't a problem for me when I'm aligning small parts. But when I need to align holes that are 7 feet apart, I get an anxiety attack because of the length of time it takes to move the probe from hole to hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Zo...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. Hello Max! In this case let you define a simple but stable start alignment with short paths. (Recommended to align your first hole as origin in two directions e.g. X-Y) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[No...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 The usual joystick speed of all Zeiss machines I know (which are exactly 3 🙂 ) is 70 mm/s, and for a reason. This is the maximum speed for which Zeiss guarantees that a collision won't do permanent damage to the probe head. The controller logs all of your collisions and the service techs have a neat little analyzer tool on their notebooks. They are always happy to show you some nifty pie charts of how many high-speed collisions your machine had and when (and that unfortunately any possible head warranty has become voided because of this). So increasing the manual speed is generally not a good idea. But anyway: The maximum joystick speed is stored per axis in some variables in the controller. To increase it, the variables would have to be set accordingly with the appropriate tool (TESO). In old UMESS times TESO came for free with the software installation and you only needed to know the correct password to use it. But to prevent free usage by third-party CMM service providers, it's a licensed product today. Even the Zeiss techs need to request a temporary license when they do maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[To...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. What model of cmm do you have? I know older Conturas had a key switch on the front panel. I believe it said Off / Auto / Manual. If it was on Manual, it affects the speed. Don't remember if it affected jog speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. Yes, I always use a hole as x and y origin, a second hole to establish direction, and top plane for z-origin. The long parts that I measure have 8 holes. I usually choose the 2 holes that are furthest from each other because of accuracy. If I were to choose a pair of holes closer to each other (so I don't have to move the probe as far), would that decrease the accuracy of the alignment or would the accuracy of the alignment be the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. I have a ZEISS VAST XT CONTURA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[To...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Does it look like this? If not, forget everything I said... 🤣 🤣 🤣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ca...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Is that a pic of my trainer machine at Methods??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ke...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. If you are looping your Base Alignment, then the accuracy should be the same. The number of iterations of your base alignment is up to you, as is the break condition if you choose to use one. I loop the alignment on every program, and 3 iterations is usually enough for me, but it depends on your parts, and the Delta values between iterations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. It doesn't look like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. I've never heard about a loop function. When you say "looping" do you mean measuring each feature of the alignment more than once? I haven't been doing that. Well, after I do the manual probe on the alignment features, the machine measures each of those features. Does that count as a loop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[SH...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. No. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2681 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Me...] Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. 2 different topics here... Looping an alignment can eliminate probe error, commonly known as cosine error. Works great for castings, non-prismatic parts, etc. The main purpose of the Base Alignment is to reduce probing error when collecting data. Your Base Alignment doesn't necessarily have to be datum features. It should use features that will eliminate the most amount of probing error on the initial data collection. You can always create other alignments afterwards to measure different features with minimal probe error. Using that logic, choosing the holes farthest from each other is a good practice. It eliminates projection error. Imagine having a 6 ft plate with 10 inline holes, equally spaced. If you choose the 1rst and second hole, and even if you loop the alignment, any alignment difference between the holes will be projected to the end of the part. When you go to probe that last hole you will most likely get probing/cosine error because it thinks the hole is over to the side, or maybe it won't even find the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[ke...] Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. Check around and under the machine, also check on the top of the column for the light curtains. You need 18 - 24 inches around the entire CMM clear. I had a USB cable running near the CMM, the light curtain triggered and slowed the travel down to a crawl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ke...] Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. Very true; some common sense does need to be used, and what you choose should be dependant upon the parts that you are measuring. If the holes are a "decent" size and form, then the odds of the back holes being too far off location is reduced. I have parts that I measure that are up to 3ft long, and I only use 2 points, at the front of the part. One is a self centering midpoint (for X&Z), the other is a plane point (for Y). This works well for these parts, as I have a stable/repeatable fixture, and my Base Alignment feature at the back of the part is an OD Circle, with plenty of clearance. Other parts that I have measured were plastic molded injection assemblies, and I couldn't trust a start alignment to save my life 🤣 If you have an accurate and repeatable fixture, you may be able to use that for your Start Alignment, as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. I have cables and also a table and computer next to the CMM. That could be why. Is there a sensor that reduces the speed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Ma...] Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. Which curtains are you referring to? I don't see any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Th...] Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 I was under the impression those sensors were only part of a speed package for the Accura, not the Contura. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[ke...] Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Please sign in to view this quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[No...] Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Max, have you already "measured" the maximum manual speed of the machine? Maybe you should do that, before we continue discussing about sensors and curtains 😉 Stick a marker on the portal somewhere near the table, then drive at full manual speed along the Y axis for one or more seconds (use stop watch) and mark the start and end positions of the marker on the table. Measure the distance and divide by the number of seconds. What do you get? If it's close to 70 mm, everything's in order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[Pe...] Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Max, manual alignments on a part seven feet long sounds painful. I can see why you'd want to change that. Zeiss limits the joystick speed intentionally for safety reasons - both yours and the CMM's. I think you'll have more luck reducing your frustration if you look for ways to eliminate that long manual travel. Let the CMM move those long distances in CNC mode. How often do you run a manual base alignment on your parts? If you have to do this a lot there are ways to reduce or eliminate the need for manual alignments using sound repeatable fixtures and maybe a few tweaks to your base alignment. Zoltán Harangozó suggested a start alignment. Are you familiar with this? It's essentially a pre-alignment using a few simple features all nearby one another that will get the CMM "close enough" to be able to find your part, then it will run the base alignment in CNC mode. You could use your top plane and two holes close together in a manual start alignment, and still use the top plane and two holes far apart for your base alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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